east. From here the road ran to the south for a little way nearly
level, then turned abruptly to the east, and was more steep than ever.
After the turn, I had a huge chalk cliff towering over me on the right,
and a chalk precipice on my left. Night was now coming on fast, and,
rather to my uneasiness, masses of mist began to pour down the sides of
the mountain. I hurried on, the road making frequent turnings.
Presently the mist swept down upon me, and was so thick that I could only
see a few yards before me. I was now obliged to slacken my pace, and to
advance with some degree of caution. I moved on in this way for some
time, when suddenly I heard a noise, as if a number of carts were coming
rapidly down the hill. I stopped, and stood with my back close against
the high bank. The noise drew nearer, and in a minute I saw distinctly
through the mist, horses, carts, and forms of men passing. In one or two
cases the wheels appeared to be within a few inches of my feet. I let
the train go by, and then cried out in English, "Am I right for Gutter
Vawr?"

"Hey?" said a voice, after a momentary interval.

"Am I right for Gutter Vawr?" I shouted yet louder.

"Yes sure!" said a voice, probably the same.

Then instantly a much rougher voice cried, "Who the Devil are you?"

I made no answer, but went on, whilst the train continued its way
rumbling down the mountain. At length I gained the top, where the road
turned and led down a steep descent towards the south-west. It was now
quite night, and the mist was of the thickest kind. I could just see
that there was a frightful precipice on my left, so I kept to the right,
hugging the side of the hill. As I descended I heard every now and then
loud noises in the vale, probably proceeding from stone quarries. I was
drenched to the skin, nay, through the skin, by the mist, which I verily
believe was more penetrating than that described by Ab Gwilym. When I
had proceeded about a mile I saw blazes down below, resembling those of
furnaces, and soon after came to the foot of the hill. It was here
pouring with rain, but I did not put up my umbrella, as it was impossible
for me to be more drenched than I was. Crossing a bridge over a kind of
torrent, I found myself amongst some houses. I entered one of them from
which a blaze of light and a roar of voices proceeded, and, on inquiring
of an old woman who confronted me in the passage, I found that I had
reached my much needed