lled, I
believe, Ash Mount or Cinder Hill. But my imperfect map told me that
here it went sharp round to the left, choosing a pass, and then at an
angle went down its way to Lugano.

Now Lugano was not fifteen miles as the crow flies from where I stood,
and I determined to cut off that angle by climbing the high hills just
above me. They were wooded only on their slopes; their crest and much
of their sides were a down-land of parched grass, with rocks appearing
here and there. At the first divergent lane I made off eastward from
the road and began to climb.

In under the chestnut trees the lane became a number of vague beaten
paths; I followed straight upwards. Here and there were little houses
standing hidden in leaves, and soon I crossed the railway, and at last
above the trees I saw the sight of all the Bellinzona valley to the
north; and turning my eyes I saw it broaden out between its walls to
where the lake lay very bright, in spite of the slight mist, and this
mist gave the lake distances, and the mountains round about it were
transfigured and seemed part of the mere light.

The Italian lakes have that in them and their air which removes them
from common living. Their beauty is not the beauty which each of us
sees for himself in the world; it is rather the beauty of a special
creation; the expression of some mind. To eyes innocent, and first
freshly noting our great temporal inheritance--1 mean to the eyes of a
boy and girl just entered upon the estate of this glorious earth, and
thinking themselves immortal, this shrine of Europe might remain for
ever in the memory; an enchanted experience, in which the single sense
of sight had almost touched the boundary of music. They would remember
these lakes as the central emotion of their youth. To mean men also
who, in spite of years and of a full foreknowledge of death, yet
attempt nothing but the satisfaction of sense, and pride themselves
upon the taste and fineness with which they achieve this satisfaction,
the Italian lakes would seem a place for habitation, and there such a
man might build his house contentedly. But to ordinary Christians I am
sure there is something unnatural in this beauty of theirs, and they
find in it either a paradise only to be won by a much longer road to a
bait and veil of sorcery, behind which lies great peril. Now, for all
we know, beauty beyond the world may not really bear this double
aspect; but to us on earth--if we are ordinary m