t several men driving oxen took me to a house that was
perhaps the inn, though there was no sign; and there in a twilight
room we all sat down together like Christians in perfect harmony, and
the woman of the house served us.

Now when, after this communion, I asked the way to Collagna, they must
have thought me foolish, and have wondered why I did not pass the
night with them, for they knew how far off Collagna was. But I (by the
error in language of which I have told you) believed it to be but a
short way off. It was in reality ten miles. The oldest of my
companions said he would put me on the way.

We went together in the half light by a lane that followed the crest
of the hill, and we passed a charming thing, a little white sculpture
in relief, set up for a shrine and representing the Annunciation; and
as we passed it we both smiled. Then in a few hundred yards we passed
another that was the Visitation, and they were gracious and beautiful
to a degree, and I saw that they stood for the five joyful mysteries.
Then he had to leave me, and he said, pointing to the little shrine:

'When you come to the fifth of these the path divides. Take that to
the left, and follow it round the hollow of the mountain: it will
become a lane. This lane crosses a stream and passes near a tower.
When you have reached the tower it joins a great highroad, and that is
the road to Collagna.'

And when he indicated the shrines he smiled, as though in apology for
them, and I saw that we were of the same religion. Then (since people
who will not meet again should give each other presents mutually) I
gave him the best of my two pipes, a new pipe with letters carved on
it, which he took to be the initials of my name, and he on his part
gave me a hedge-rose which he had plucked and had been holding in his
fingers. And I continued the path alone.

Certainly these people have a benediction upon them, granted them for
their simple lives and their justice. Their eyes are fearless and
kindly. They are courteous, straight, and all have in them laughter
and sadness. They are full of songs, of memories, of the stories of
their native place; and their worship is conformable to the world that
God made. May they possess their own land, and may their influence
come again from Italy to save from jar, and boasting, and ineptitude
the foolish, valourless cities, and the garish crowds of shouting
men.... And let us especially pray that the revival of the fa