thing in upper waters, because in the torrent-sources of rivers either
the upper waters run over changeless rocks or else over gravel and
sand. Now if they run over rocks they have their isolated shallow
places, which any man may find, and their deep--evident by the still
and mysterious surface, where fish go round and round in the hollows;
but no true ford continuous from side to side. So it is in Scotland.
And if they run over gravel and sand, then with every storm or 'spate'
they shift and change. But here by some accident there ran--perhaps a
shelf or rock, perhaps a ruin of a Roman bridge--something at least
that was deep enough and solid enough to be a true ford--and that we
followed.

The molinar--even the molinar--was careful of his way. Twice he
waited, waist high, while the man on stilts before us suddenly lost
ground and plunged to his feet. Once, crossing a small branch (for the
river here, like all these rivers, runs in many arms over the dry
gravel), it seemed there was no foothold and we had to cast up and
down. Whenever we found dry land, I came off the molinar's back to
rest him, and when he took the water again I mounted again. So we
passed the many streams, and stood at last on the Tizzanian side. Then
I gave a lira to the molinar, and to his companion on stilts 50 c.,
who said, 'What is this for?' and I said, 'You also helped.'

The molinar then, with gesticulations and expression of the eyes, gave
me to understand that for this 50 c. the stilt-man would take me up to
Tizzano on the high ridge and show me the path up the ridge; so the
stilt-man turned to me and said, _'Andiamo' _which means _'Allons'.
_But when the Italians say _'Andiamo' _they are less harsh than the
northern French who say _'Allans'; _for the northern French have three
troubles in the blood. They are fighters; they will for ever be
seeking the perfect state, and they love furiously. Hence they ferment
twice over, like wine subjected to movement and breeding acidity.
Therefore is it that when they say _'Allons'_ it is harsher than
_'Andiamo'._ My Italian said to me genially, _'Andiamo_'.

The Catholic Church makes men. By which I do not mean boasters and
swaggerers, nor bullies nor ignorant fools, who, finding themselves
comfortable, think that their comfort will be a boon to others, and
attempt (with singular unsuccess) to force it on the world; but men,
human beings, different from the beasts, capable of firmness and
discipli