manner round the Sulberg, a hill from which the traveller
enjoys a very extended view over the great plain, in which it is the only
elevated point. The course of the Elbe, as it winds at moderate speed
towards the sea, is here to be traced almost to its embouchure at
Cuxhaven.

The breadth of the Elbe at Blankenese exceeds two miles.

Another interesting excursion is to the "New Mills," a little village on
the Elbe, not more than half a mile from Altona, and inhabited only by
fishermen and pilots. Whoever wishes to form an idea of Dutch prettiness
and cleanliness should come here.

The houses are mostly one story high, neatly and tastefully built; the
brightest of brass handles adorn the street-doors; the windows are kept
scrupulously clean, and furnished with white curtains.

In Saxony I had found many dwellings of the peasantry tidy and neat
enough, displaying at any rate more opulence than we are accustomed to
find with this class of people; but I had seen none to compete with this
pretty village.

Among the peasants' costumes, I only liked that worn by the women from
the "Vierlanden." They wear short full skirts of black stuff, fine white
chemisettes with long sleeves, and coloured bodices, lightly fastened in
front with silk cords or silver buckles. Their straw hats have a most
comical appearance; the brim of the hat is turned up in such a manner
that the crown appears to have completely sunk in. Many pretty young
girls dressed in this manner come to Hamburgh to sell flowers, and take
up their position in front of the Exchange.

The 26th of April, the day appointed for my departure, arrived only too
speedily. To part is the unavoidable fate of the traveller; but
sometimes we part gladly, sometimes with regret. I need not write many
pages to describe my feelings at the parting in Hamburgh. I was leaving
behind me my last relations, my last friends. Now I was going into the
wide world, and among strangers.

At eight o'clock in the morning I left Altona, and proceeded by railway
to Kiel.

I noticed with pleasure that on this railway even the third-class
carriages were securely covered in, and furnished with glass windows. In
fact, they only differed from those of the first and second class in
being painted a different colour, and having the seats uncushioned.

The whole distance of seventy miles was passed in three hours; a rapid
journey, but agreeable merely by its rapidity, for the whole
neighb