pieces of Thorwaldsen. At the high altar
stands his glorious figure of our Saviour, in the niches of the wall his
colossal twelve apostles.
In the contemplation of these works we forget the plainness of the
building which contains them. May the fates be prosperous, and no
conflagration reach this church, built as it is half of wood!
The Catholic Church is small, but tasteful beyond expression. The late
emperor of Austria presented to it a good full-toned organ, and two
oil-paintings, one by Kuppelweiser, the other by a pupil of this master.
In the "Museum of Arts" I was most interested in the ancient chair, used
in days of yore by Tycho de Brahe. {16}
The Exchange is a curious ancient building. It is very long and narrow,
and surmounted by nine peaks, from the centre of which protrudes a
remarkable pointed tower, formed of four crocodiles' tails intertwined.
The hall itself is small, low, and dark; it contains a full-length
portrait in oil of Tycho de Brahe. Nearly all the upper part of the
building is converted into a kind of bazaar, and the lower portion
contains a number of small and dingy booths.
Several canals, having an outlet into the sea, give a peculiar charm to
the town. They are, in fact, so many markets; for the craft lying in
them are laden with provisions of all kinds, which are here offered for
sale.
The Sailors' Town, adjoining Copenhagen, and situated near the harbour,
is singularly neat and pretty. It consists of three long, broad,
straight streets, built of houses looking so exactly alike, that on a
foggy night an accurate knowledge of the locality is requisite to know
one from the other. It looks as though, on each side of the way, there
were only one long house of a single floor, with a building one story
high in the middle. In the latter dwell the commandant and overseers.
The lighting of the streets is managed in Copenhagen in the same way as
in our smaller German towns. When "moonlight" is announced in the
calendar, not a lamp is lighted. If the lady moon chooses to hide behind
dark clouds, that is her fault. It would be insolent to attempt to
supply the place of her radiance with miserable lamps--a wise
arrangement! (?)
Of the near walks, the garden of the "Rosenburg," within the town,
pleased me much; as did also the "Long Line," an alley of beautiful trees
extending parallel with the sea, and in which one can either walk or
ride. A coffee-house, in front of whic
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