three hours and a quarter.

As the steamer for Hamburgh was not to start until 3 o'clock, I had ample
time to look at the town.

Magdeburg is a mixed pattern of houses of ancient, mediaeval, and modern
dates. Particularly remarkable in this respect is the principal street,
the "Broadway," which runs through the whole of the town. Here we can
see houses dating their origin from the most ancient times; houses that
have stood proof against sieges and sackings; houses of all colours and
forms; some sporting peaked gables, on which stone figures may still be
seen; others covered from roof to basement with arabesques; and in one
instance I could even detect the remains of frescoes. In the very midst
of these relics of antiquity would appear a house built in the newest
style. I do not remember ever having seen a street which produced so
remarkable an impression on me. The finest building is unquestionably
the venerable cathedral. In Italy I had already seen numbers of the most
beautiful churches; yet I remained standing in mute admiration before
this masterpiece of Gothic architecture.

The monument with the twelve Apostles in this church is a worthy memorial
of the celebrated sculptor Vischer. In order to view it, it is necessary
to obtain the special permission of the commandant.

The cathedral square is large, symmetrical, and decorated with two alleys
of trees; it is also used as a drilling-ground for the soldiers' minor
manoeuvres. I was particularly struck with the number of military men to
be seen here. Go where I would, I was sure to meet soldiers and
officers, frequently in large companies; in time of war it could scarcely
have been worse. This was an unmistakeable token that I was on Prussian
territory.

The open canals, which come from all the houses, and meander through the
streets, are a great disfigurement to the town.

Half-past three o'clock came only too quickly, and I betook myself on
board the steamer _Magdeburg_, of sixty-horse power, to proceed to
Hamburgh. Of the passage itself I can say nothing, except that a journey
on a river through execrable scenery is one of the most miserable things
that can well be imagined. When, in addition to this, the weather is
bad, the ship dirty, and one is obliged to pass a night on board, the
discomfort is increased. It was my lot to endure all this: the weather
was bad, the ship was dirty, the distance more than 100 miles, so that we
had the pleasant