ntory we obtained a view
of the fine fortress skirting the sea; it seems to have been built
for the protection of the town beyond.

After passing Tenedos we lost sight of the Greek islands for a short
time (the mainland of Asia can always be distinguished on our left),
but soon afterwards we reached the most beautiful of them all--
Mytelene, which has justly been sung by many poets as the Island of
the Fairies. For seven hours we glided by its coast. It resembles
a garden of olives, orange-trees, pomegranates, etc. The view is
bounded at the back by a double row of peaked mountains, and the
town lies nearly in the midst. It is built in a circular form,
round a hill, strengthened with fortifications. In front the town
is girded by a strong wall, and in the rear extends a deep bay. A
few masts peered forth and shewed us where the bay ended. From this
point we saw numerous villages prettily situated among the luxuriant
shade of large trees. It must be a delightful thing to spend the
spring-time on this island.

I remained on deck till late in the night, so charming, so rich in
varied pictures of verdant isles is this voyage on the AEgaean Sea.
Had I been a magician, I would have fixed the sun in the heavens
until we had arrived at Smyrna. Unfortunately many a beauteous
island which we next morning contemplated ruefully on the map was
hidden from us by the shades of night.

May 19th.

Long before the sun was up, I had resumed my post on deck, to
welcome Smyrna from afar.

A double chain of mountains, rising higher and higher, warned us of
our approach to the rich commercial city. At first we can only
distinguish the ancient dilapidated castle on a rock, then the city
itself, built at the foot of the rock, on the sea-shore; at the back
the view is closed by the "Brother Mountains."

The harbour is very spacious, but has rather the appearance of a
wharf, with room for whole fleets to anchor. Many ships were lying
here, and there was evidently plenty of business going on.

The "Franks' town," which can be distinctly viewed from the steamer,
extends along the harbour, and has a decidedly European air.

Herr von Cramer had been previously apprised of my arrival, and was
obliging enough to come on board to fetch me. We at once rode to
Halizar, the summer residence of many of the citizens, where I was
introduced to my host's family.

Halizar is distant about five English miles from Smyrna. The road
thithe