harbour, a task of some difficulty in calm weather, becomes totally
impracticable during a storm. A round tower stands as a protection
on either side of the entrance to the harbour. The venerable church
of St. John and the palace of the Komthur can be distinguished
towering high above the houses and fortifications.
Our captain imparted to us the pleasant intelligence that we might
spend the hours between this and three o'clock in the afternoon on
shore. Our ship had for some time lain surrounded by little boats,
and so we lost no time in being conveyed to the land. The first
thing we did on reaching it was to ask questions concerning the
ancient site of the celebrated Colossus. But we could gain no
information, as neither our books nor the people here could point
out the place to us with certainty; so we left the coast, to make up
for the disappointment by exploring the ancient city.
Rhodes is surrounded with three rows of strong fortifications. We
passed over three drawbridges before entering the town. We were
quite surprised to see the beautiful streets, the well-kept houses,
and the excellent pavement. The principal street, containing the
houses of the ancient Knights of St. John, is very broad, with
buildings so massively constructed of stone as almost to resemble
fortresses. Heraldic bearings, with dates carved in stone, grace
many of the Gothic gateways. The French shield, with the three
lilies and the date 1402, occurs most frequently. On the highest
point in the city are built the church of St. John and the house of
the governor.
All the exteriors seem in such good preservation, that one could
almost fancy the knights had only departed to plant their victorious
banner on the Holy Sepulchre. They have in truth departed--departed
to a better home. Centuries have breathed upon their ashes,
scattered in all the regions of the earth. But their deeds have
been chronicled both in heaven and among men, and the heroes still
live in the admiration of posterity.
The churches, the house of the governor, and many other buildings,
are not nearly so well preserved inside as a first glance would lead
us to imagine. The reason of this is that the upper part of the
town is but thinly inhabited. A gloomy air of silence and vacancy
reigns around. We could wander about every where without being
stared at or annoyed by the vulgar and envious. Mr. Bartlett, the
Englishman, made a few sketches in his drawing
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