ccasion to visit the Blue Town, would
certainly not fail to put-up at the "Hotel of the Three Perfections."

[Picture: Tchagan-Kouren]

CHAPTER VI.

A Tartar-eater--Loss of Arsalan--Great Caravan of Camels--Night Arrival
at Tchagan-Kouren--We are refused Admission into the Inns--We take up our
abode with a Shepherd--Overflow of the Yellow River--Aspect of
Tchagan-Kouren--Departure across the Marshes--Hiring a Bark--Arrival on
the Banks of the Yellow River--Encampment under the Portico of a
Pagoda--Embarkation of the Camels--Passage of the Yellow River--Laborious
Journey across the Inundated Country--Encampment on the Banks of the
River.

We quitted the Blue Town on the fourth day of the ninth moon. We had
already been travelling more than a month. It was with the utmost
difficulty that our little caravan could get out of the town. The
streets were encumbered with men, cars, animals, stalls in which the
traders displayed their goods; we could only advance step by step, and at
times we were obliged to come to a halt, and wait for some minutes until
the way became a little cleared. It was near noon before we reached the
last houses of the town, outside the western gate. There, upon a level
road, our camels were at length able to proceed at their ease in all the
fulness of their long step. A chain of rugged rocks rising on our right
sheltered us so completely from the north wind, that we did not at all
feel the rigour of the weather. The country through which we were now
travelling was still a portion of Western Toumet. We observed in all
directions the same indications of prosperity and comfort which had so
much gratified us east of the town. Everywhere around substantial
villages presented proofs of successful agriculture and trade. Although
we could not set up our tent in the cultivated fields by which we were
now surrounded, yet, so far as circumstances permitted, we adhered to our
Tartar habits. Instead of entering an inn to take our morning meal, we
seated ourselves under a rock or tree, and there breakfasted upon some
rolls fried in oil, of which we had bought a supply at the Blue Town.
The passers-by laughed at this rustic proceeding, but they were not
surprised at it. Tartars, unused to the manners of civilised nations,
are entitled to take their repast by the roadside even in places where
inns abound.

During the day this mode of travelling was pleasant and convenie