upon. It is necessary that we
should gain a livelihood by that; five lis sail, three men, a horse, a
mule, and luggage; but come, as you are spiritual persons, we will only
charge you 2,000 sapeks." The price was preposterous; we made no answer.
We took our animals by the bridle and turned back, pretending that we
would not continue our journey. Scarcely had we advanced twenty paces
before the ferryman ran after us. "Sirs Lamas, are not you going to
cross the water in my boat?" "Why," said we drily, "doubtless you are
too rich to take any trouble in the matter. If you really wanted to let
your boat, would you ask 2,000 sapeks?" "2,000 sapeks is the price I
ask; but what will you give?" "If you like to take 500 sapeks, let us
set out at once; it is already late." "Return, Sir Lamas; get into the
boat;" and he caught hold, as he spoke, of the halters of our beasts. We
considered that the price was at last fixed; but we had scarcely arrived
on the border of the lake, when the ferryman exclaimed to one of his
comrades,--"Come, our fortune deserts us to-day; we must bear much
fatigue for little remuneration. We shall have to row five lis, and
after all we shall have only 1,500 sapeks to divide between eight of us."
"1,500 sapeks!" exclaimed we; "you are mocking us; we will leave you;"
and we turned back for the second time. Some mediators, inevitable
persons in all Chinese matters, presented themselves, and undertook to
settle the fare. It was at length decided that we should pay 800 sapeks;
the sum was enormous, but we had no other means of pursuing our way. The
boatmen knew this, and took accordingly the utmost advantage of our
position.

The embarkation was effected with extraordinary celerity, and we soon
quitted the shore. Whilst we advanced by means of the oars, on the
surface of the lake, a man mounted on a camel and leading two others
after him, followed a path traced out by a small boat rowed by a
waterman. The latter was obliged every now and then to sound the depth
of the water, and the camel-driver needed to be very attentive in
directing his course in the straight trail left by the boat, lest he
should be swallowed up in the holes beneath the water. The camels
advanced slowly, stretching out their long necks, and at times leaving
only their heads and the extremity of their humps visible above the lake.
We were in continual alarm; for these animals not being able to swim,
there only needed a fal