to some
gulf of liquid mud.
By-and-by, our animals alarmed and wearied, could hardly proceed, and we
were compelled to beat them severely and to exhaust our voices with
bawling at them before they would move at all. The tall grass and plants
of the marshes twisted about their legs, and it was only by leaps, and at
the risk of throwing off both baggage and riders that they could
extricate themselves. Thrice did the youngest camel lose its balance and
fall; but on each occasion, the spot on which it fell was providentially
dry; had it stumbled in the mud, it would inevitably have been stifled.
On our way, we met three Chinese travellers, who, by the aid of long
staves, were making their laborious way through the marshes, carrying
their shoes and clothes over their shoulders. We asked them in what
direction we were likely to find a better road: "You would have been
wiser," said they, "had you remained at Tchagan-Kouren; foot passengers
can scarcely make their way through these marshes: how do you suppose you
can get on with your camels?" and with this consolatory assurance, they
quitted us, giving us a look of compassion, certain as they were that we
should never get through the mud.
The sun was just setting, when we perceived a Mongol habitation; we made
our way direct to it, without heeding the difficulties of the road. In
fact experience had already taught us that selection was quite out of the
question, and that one way was as good as another in this universal
slough. Making circuits merely lengthened the journey. The Tartars were
frightened at our appearance, covered as we were with mud and
perspiration; they immediately gave us some tea, and generously offered
us the hospitality of their dwelling. The small mud house in which they
lived, though built upon an eminence, had been half carried away by the
inundation. We could not conceive what had induced them to fix their
abode in this horrible district, but they told us that they were employed
to tend the herds belonging to some Chinese of Tchagan-Kouren. After
resting for a while, we requested information as to the best route to
pursue, and we were told that the river was only five lis off, that its
banks were dry, and that we should find there boats to carry us to the
other side. "When you have crossed the Paga-Gol," (Little River,) said
our hosts, "you may proceed in peace; you will meet with no more water to
interrupt you." We thanked these good Tar
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