se step to precipitate them to the bottom. Thanks
to the protection of God, all arrived safe at the dike which had been
pointed out to us. The boatmen, after assisting us to replace, in a
hasty manner, our baggage on the camels, indicated the point whither we
must direct our steps. "Do you see, to the right, that small Miao?
(pagoda). A little from the Miao, do you observe those wooden huts and
those black nets hanging from long poles? There you will find the
ferry-boat to cross the river. Follow this dike, and go in peace."

[Picture: Navigation of the Yellow River]

After having proceeded with difficulty for half an hour, we reached the
ferry-boat. The boatmen immediately came to us. "Sirs Lamas," said
they, "you intend, doubtless, to cross the Hoang-Ho, but you see this
evening the thing is impracticable--the sun is just setting!" "You are
right; we will cross to-morrow at daybreak: meanwhile, let us settle the
price, so that to-morrow we may lose no time in deliberation." The
watermen would have preferred waiting till the morrow to discuss this
important point, expecting we should offer a much larger sum, when just
about to embark. At first their demands were preposterous: happily,
there were two boats which competed together, otherwise we should have
been ruined. The price was ultimately fixed at 1,000 sapeks. The
passage was not long, it is true, for the river had nearly resumed its
bed; but the waters were very rapid, and, moreover the camels had to
ride. The amount, enormous in itself, appeared, upon the whole,
moderate, considering the difficulty and trouble of the passage. This
business arranged, we considered how we should pass the night. We could
not think of seeking an asylum in the fishermen's cabins; even if they
had been sufficiently large, we should have had a considerable objection
to place our effects in the hands of these folks. We were sufficiently
acquainted with the Chinese not to trust to their honesty. We looked out
for a place whereon to set up our tent; but we could find nowhere a spot
sufficiently dry: mud or stagnant water covered the ground in all
directions. About a hundred yards from the shore was a small Miao, or
temple of idols; a narrow, high path led to it. We proceeded thither to
see if we could find there a place of repose. It turned out as we
wished. A portico, supported by three stone pillars, stood before the
entrance door, which was secured