s.
At all the inns where we successively applied, we were received in much
the same manner. No sooner were the camels noticed than the answer was,
No room; in point of fact, no innkeeper, if he can avoid it, will receive
camels into his stables at all: their size occupies great space, and
their appearance almost invariably creates alarm among the other animals;
so that Chinese travellers generally make it a condition with the
landlord before they enter an inn, that no Tartar caravan shall be
admitted. Our guide finding all our efforts futile, got tired of
accompanying us, wished us good night, and returned to his forge.

We were exhausted with weariness, hunger, and thirst, yet there seemed no
remedy for the evil, when all at once we heard the bleating of sheep.
Following the sound, we came to a mud enclosure, the door of which was at
once opened upon our knocking. "Brother," said we, "is this an inn?"
"No, it is a sheep-house. Who are you?" "We are travellers, who have
arrived here, weary and hungry; but no one will receive us." As we were
speaking, an old man came to the door, holding in his hand a lighted
torch. As soon as he saw our camels and our costume, "Mendou! Mendou!"
he exclaimed, "Sirs Lamas, enter; there is room for your camels in the
court, and my house is large enough for you; you shall stay and rest here
for several days." We entered joyfully, fastened our camels to the
manger, and seated ourselves round the hearth, where already tea was
prepared for us. "Brother," said we to the old man, "we need not ask
whether it is to Mongols that we owe this hospitality." "Yes, Sirs
Lamas," said he, "we are all Mongols here. We have for some time past
quitted the tent, to reside here; so that we may better carry on our
trade in sheep. Alas! we are insensibly becoming Chinese!" "Your manner
of life," returned we, "may have changed, but it is certain that your
hearts have remained Tartar. Nowhere else in all Tchagan-Kouren, has the
door of kindness been opened to us."

Observing our fatigue, the head of the family unrolled some skins in a
corner of the room, and we gladly laid ourselves down to repose. We
should have slept on till the morning, but Samdadchiemba aroused us to
partake of the supper which our hosts had hospitably prepared--two large
cups of tea, cakes baked in the ashes, and some chops of boiled mutton,
arranged on a stool by way of a table. The meal seemed after our long
fasting, perfe