ctly magnificent; we partook of it heartily, and then
having exchanged pinches of snuff with the family, resumed our slumber.

Next morning we communicated the plan of our journey to our Mongol hosts.
No sooner had we mentioned that we intended to pass the Yellow River, and
thence traverse the country of the Ortous, than the whole family burst
out with exclamations. "It is quite impossible," said the old man, "to
cross the Yellow River. Eight days ago the river overflowed its banks,
and the plains on both sides are completely inundated." This
intelligence filled us with the utmost consternation. We had been quite
prepared to pass the Yellow River under circumstances of danger arising
from the wretchedness of the ferry boats and the difficulty of managing
our camels in them, and we knew, of course, that the Hoang-Ho was subject
to periodical overflows; but these occur ordinarily in the rainy season,
towards the sixth or seventh month, whereas we were now in the dry
season, and, moreover, in a peculiarly dry season.

We proceeded forthwith towards the river to investigate the matter for
ourselves, and found that the Tartar had only told us the exact truth.
The Yellow River had become, as it were, a vast sea, the limits of which
were scarcely visible. Here and there you could see the higher grounds
rising above the water, like islands, while the houses and villages
looked as though they were floating upon the waves. We consulted several
persons as to the course we should adopt. Some said that further
progress was impracticable, for that, even where the inundation had
subsided, it had left the earth so soft and slippery that the camels
could not walk upon it, while elsewhere we should have to dread at every
step some deep pool, in which we should inevitably be drowned. Other
opinions were more favourable, suggesting that the boats which were
stationed at intervals for the purpose would easily and cheaply convey us
and our baggage in three days to the river, while the camels could follow
us through the water, and that once at the river side, the great
ferry-boat would carry us all over the bed of the stream without any
difficulty.

What were we to do? To turn back was out of the question. We had vowed
that, God aiding, we would go to Lha-Ssa whatever obstacles impeded. To
turn the river by coasting it northwards would materially augment the
length of our journey, and, moreover, compel us to traverse the great
de