irst introduced
the cake from Spain, and taught the people how to make it. Whatever its
origin, it is very good. You get chop-sticks handed you too, which,
after a few ineffectual and laughable attempts to manipulate in the
approved fashion, you throw on one side. After the decks are cleared the
young ladies bring out their _sam-sins_, and whilst we smoke Japanese
pipes, they delight our ears with an overture, which we pronounce
excruciating in English, though with our eyes we say "divine as Patti."

But we must not tarry longer here for the setting sun warns us it is
time to get on board.

Our patient "steeds" are at the foot of the stairs, each ready to claim
his rider. These fellows will stick to you like a leech; follow you
about for hours, never intruding their presence on you, and yet seem to
anticipate all your movements and wants.

CHAPTER X.

"I looked upon those hills and plains,
And seemed as if let loose from chains,
To live at liberty."

THE INLAND SEAS.--KOBE.--FUSI-YAMA.--YOKOHAMA.
VISIT TO TOKIO.

The arrival of the "Vigilant" from Shanghai, with the admiral on board,
brought our stay at charming Nagasaki to a close. During the absence of
our band with the "Vigilant," one of its members, Henry Harper, a feeble
old man, and far advanced in consumption, died at Shanghai.

June 11th.--Left Nagasaki _en route_ for the eastward, _via_ the Inland
Seas. Our way to Simoneski lay through numerous islands of so beautiful
an appearance that a writer has compared them to some of the fairest
spots in Devon. But this, though it says much, is but a poor tribute to
such enchanting loveliness.

At daylight the following morning we made the narrow channel at
Simoneski, the western entrance to the seas; and as there is always a
strong rush of water through the passage towards the ocean, we had to
steam hard against a considerable current. The town, of which I spoke in
my last chapter, has a very straggling and neat cleanly appearance.
There are no forts or other defences to indicate that not so long ago
this town offered defiance and a short resistance to a European
squadron.

The Inland Sea has four chief divisions, which now commences to open out
before us, and is reckoned to possess some of the finest scenery in the
world. I had often wished to see it for myself; but I must confess I was
unprepared, even with an imagination not liable to surprise, at a
picture of nature's own