rrific, a squall struck us in wild, fitful
gusts. We were carrying reefed topsails and trysails at the time, and it
was fortunate that we had no more sail on, or surely our spars must have
gone over the side. As it was, the fore trysail split with the report of
a cannon, and the main-topsail, unable to stand the enormous strain, was
torn from top to bottom. To make things more cheerful, the clouds, in
their sport, hurled blinding slanting sheets of water at us; for it
would be an error to say that rain fell. An effort was made to furl
sails; but though there was no lack of cheerful hands speedily on the
yards, numbers became powerless to manipulate canvas which by the
combined elements had been converted into deal boards. As it was
impossible that orders could be heard from deck, the officers went aloft
and lay out on the yards amongst the men, encouraging them by voice and
example. The attempt had to be given up and the sails secured to the
yards by lashings.

September 11th.--The dreary, monotonous, unenlivening coast line of
China, with its interminable sand hills and granite peaks, once more in
sight. The landscapes of north China are, if anything, more dreary than
ever. We must however take the bad with the good. Chefoo lies before us,
and into Chefoo we are bound to go. We cannot, as yet, see any town,
because of a sort of natural breakwater of sand and rocks which
stretches almost across the harbour's mouth; but that there is an
anchorage beyond is clear, from the thousands of masts pointing
skyward. So slow was our progress into the harbour that it seemed as if
we were never going to get there at all; but eventually we dropped
anchor at about three miles from what I suppose pretends to be a town,
but which from such a distance looked more like a straggling village. We
had gone in quite far enough, though, for every revolution of the screws
discoloured the water with sand and mud, and, furthermore, I believe we
touched, for a distinct not to be mistaken vibration was clearly felt by
all hands. This part of the anchorage is much exposed to the sea; and,
in the event of a blow from the northward, we are in a position to
encounter its full fury. Chefoo, notwithstanding its uninteresting
appearance, seems to be a pretty regular port of call for men-of-war,
several of which are lying at anchor within the bar.

There must be some spots in the neighbourhood capable of cultivation,
for our bumboat is loaded with an abun