and the effect produced on the tympanum is that of
an amorous tom-cat chanting to his lady-love at midnight. The words she
is singing, and has been singing for the--a friend who was with me said
"_the last week_;" but knowing him to be a joker, I accept the statement
with caution--for the last six hours, and which she will probably
continue to sing for the next six, contain rather too much levity and
grossness, could we understand them, to be at all suitable even for
sailors. But her present audience receive them with the utmost
indifference, only betraying that they are at all conscious of what is
going on by an occasional clapping of the hands. Now and again the
singer has a spell and a libation of saki, an attendant keeping her
liberally supplied in this item, of which she manages to drink a
quantity during her song; and, by way of a change at these times, she
enters into a monologue or a recitation. Taken and viewed in an artistic
light, the audience in their rich gala dresses is a pleasing piece of
color and of harmonic contrasts.

Close to the temple a crowd is gathered around a horse box, in which is
a milk-white steed--sacred, of course. Before him a little table is
placed, covered with tiny saucers filled with beans; and the devout--and
we in particular--can have the puerile satisfaction of seeing him munch
his comfits in a strangely horselike manner for the small sum of a
"_sen_!" Near at hand are some more sacred creatures--hundreds of
turtles in a slimy pond rear their snake-like heads through the thick
green water for the pieces of biscuit and little red balls of prepared
food which the children are constantly flinging into their midst. These
reptiles, it may be remembered, form an important figure-subject in
Japanese carvings, paintings, and bronzes.

Within easy distance of Kobe, and connected with it by rail, are the
cities of Osaca and Kioto, the former being the seaport of the latter,
and, possibly, the greatest trade centre in the empire. It seems to be
built at the delta of a river; and as there are scores of bridges
spanning their several mouths, it has much the appearance of Venice.
Kioto is the sacred city of Japan, and contains, amongst other
interesting sights, a large temple, in which are no fewer than 33,333
gods! Yearly pilgrimages are made here; and to provide spiritual
ministrations for the thousands of pilgrims, it is said that the priests
form one-fifth of the entire population.

June