a very creditable
pantomime of intoxication. At length, however, one of us used the
Japanese word "_tcha_" (tea) which had the desired effect, for one man
advanced, took a drink, and liked it; and though he of course discovered
it was not tea, he also found out it was not rum.

July 27th--We have now reached the northern end of Niphon, and turned
westward into the broad strait of Tsugar, which separates the greater
island from Yesso. The scenery about the strait is very lovely; all day
we have coasted the land down, and alternate hill and dale, and here and
there a giant volcano peak were most refreshing objects on which to rest
the eye. Towards evening the great open bay of Awomori came into view,
and in a short time we had entered it, and cast anchor opposite a small
town, built on a level grassy plain. The irregularly scattered houses,
amidst trees and greensward, have something the appearance of Singapore,
when viewed from the seaward.

Our stay was but short, for on the following morning our anchor was at
the bows, and the ships heading for Hakodadi. This town--the largest in
Yesso--reminds one very forcibly of Gibraltar. There is a similar high
rock standing sheer out of the sea--almost the same narrow strip of land
connecting it with the main; whilst the town is built on the slopes of
the eminence, and circling the bay as at Gib. The town is not over
large, and commodities are very scarce, the only thing obtainable being
dried salmon.

During our stay the ship's company landed under arms--a by no means
pleasurable treat, as you shall see. The waters near the shore were so
shallow that the men experienced great difficulty in reaching the beach,
and were only able to accomplish it after wading through about twenty
yards of mud and water, dragging guns and ammunition with them. Add to
this the inconvenience of drilling and marching in dripping clothes, and
the knowledge that the same performance must be repeated to embark
again; and you will see that a sailor's life is not all sugar. Hakodadi
is not a place that sailors are likely to fall in love with, for there
is no accommodation on shore for them; yet leave was given, and the men
had to "bunk it out" where they could. On this occasion--let me record
it in the reddest of red letters, or in the most emphatic italics--_a
liberty boat was granted_.

August 3rd--To-day is Sunday, and a sort of preliminary inspection by
the admiral, but--would you believe it?--he