inner
ones with stalls for beasts, and the other for bipeds--the only
difference is, that the accommodations for the latter animals are closer
and the apartments more confined, having as a luxury a chair, and solid
brick structures raised a little way from the ground, whereon one may
sleep, if he can endure the filth and fleas. This is all the furniture
they rejoice in. Each lodger has a key to his own quarters, and the main
gateway is guarded continually--not, however, sufficiently vigilant as
to the society admitted; for the patios are crowded with improper
persons, who every few minutes make flying trips around the inn,
knocking at the doors; then, droves of beasts coming or
going--clattering over the paved yards, mingled with the whistles and
shouts of the _arrieros_--are not altogether provocative of repose. At
the _Caravanserai_ where I lodged, there was a hump-backed Ganymede, of
the most hideous kind. I have thought since, he would have been a mine
of wealth to an enterprising showman; or, in the dark ages, have made an
acceptable present to some bold Baron. Although not more than five feet
in height, his thin lucifer-match-like legs, being split up to the hump,
gave him the stride of a giant! and what with keen, glittering, beady
eyes, and the footfall of a cat, he made my flesh creep whenever he came
near me.

Every body is his own cook and housekeeper in Mexican mesons; and old
Cypriano having procured me a wool mattrass that fairly danced with
_pulgas_, and some long tallow links, which we stuck around the
walls--having no fears of a conflagration--I despatched Juan for the
best supper to be found. This amounted to red wine, beans and sausages.
However, we made merry, and treated some gay damsels outside to the
remains of our bottle. Cypriano then extinguished our illumination, and
stretching himself on the threshold, covered by his serapa, with a
weapon beside him, he left me to repose. It was my first night's rest
since leaving San Blas, that is, if the pile of bricks and mortar which
upheld my frame could reasonably be supposed to afford it. Yet the
fleas, for once, caused me no sensible annoyance, and I regained my feet
at sunrise, in readiness for further journeyings. I was pleased, too, at
the prospect of quitting the saddle for a coach, although with good
beasts I preferred the former: but to be subjected to the misery of a
racker--then a pacer--then a trot or gallop--and by way of change, a
horribl