number of pleasant conversible persons, I made the
acquaintance of a particularly intelligent and amiable priest, who very
kindly acted as cicerone in my after rambles. We rose from the table
d'hote as the military band began the night's performance in the plaza.
The marble-paved paths and the benches were filled before we got there,
and we found some difficulty in getting places; but when my cigar got
fairly under way, and eyes widely open, I did and do still take it upon
me to affirm, that no town in the universe can boast of so much female
beauty. Not only were they in fives, but fifties. My friend, the little
Padre, appeared to be very generally beloved. Nearly all paused a moment
to say a kind word or greeting, and thus I had a clear chance of
observing the pretty throngs that swept by. They were so tastefully
attired in full flowing and becoming skirts, with no awkward stays or
corsets to cramp the grace of motion--the coquettish _ribosa_, never
quiet an instant, but changing its silken folds, and half revealing the
glancing neck and arm!--the hair, too; such hair! _ay de mi!_ no odious
bonnets to conceal God's fair handiwork!--then their arched tiny feet,
kissing the marble pavement, with so firm, so light, yet dignified a
tread--and then the elders, sailing majestically astern of their lovely
convoys--like ships of the line--regarding with wary eyes privateers in
disguise of gay young cavaliers, crossing their track. _Hola!_ what
blockade could intercept those softly audible murmurs! or the light
downy touch of dimpled fingers, quick as a swallow's kiss to his mate!
or, more than all, withstand the languid, lightning glances flashed from
their upper deck of eyes! _Ave purissima!_ the waking hours by day, and
sleepless ones by night, that Spanish maidens have caused me! "I'm not a
lover now," but still, I derived great consolation in admiring these
sweet doncellas; and fearing a relapse to former maladies, I shook hands
with the Padre, buckled on spurs and sabre, and as the cathedral bell
was tolling ten, I was leaving Guadalajara, with its blaze of lights and
beauty, behind me.

Taking the main road for three hours, we crossed the Great Bridge, and
turning to the north, struck the route of the Haciendas, which in lieu
of smooth travelling and robbers, possessed the advantages of safety,
and a more direct communication to the interior. At daylight, we had
ridden nineteen leagues, on capital animals, who never once