upon the
bier, and masses to be said for his soul as soon as day dawned? I have
ever remarked, that the safest mode of treating perverse, obstinate
persons, who are resolved to quarrel, is to approach close to them, in a
moral sense, and--like to dealing with a fierce ram by patting him on
the tail--they have no space to rear and pitch into one. It is time
enough to bid defiance when this system fails. Bowing to the saddle-bow,
hat in hand, I thus began: "Pardon me, my good friend! had we known of
your bereavement, be assured we should have torn our teeth out, rather
than have disturbed your grief: we are bound _extraordinario_! If there
be no horses, at least oblige us with a cup of water to wash down a
measure of this oily _licor_ from the grand Meson of Aguacatlan, and
oblige us by touching it first to your own lips!" I saw by the moon's
silver beams athwart his rubicund visage, that he relented; whereupon,
paying him some sorrowful compliments upon the demise of his aged
parent, I quite conquered his anger. Leaving me in charge of the defunct
old gentleman, I puffed a cigarillo, while he went to get beasts for the
guides, and his own mule for my use, as he assured me, _bueno y muy
vivo_--lively as a cricket. In a few minutes we were again upon the
road. Skirting along the banks of a small river for a couple of leagues,
we then crossed to the opposite side, where hills arose in endless
succession, soaring to the clouds in the distance, and where we were
destined to pass. It was the _Plan de Barrancas_. I had for the past
hour been venting maledictions on the administrador and his _vivo_
mule, for I never saw any but monks and muleteers who properly
understand their peculiar management. To one, like myself, ignorant of
the habits of these quadrupeds--never mind how expert a horseman he may
be--if they ever be urged out of their usual amble on a level space,
their gallop is such a jerking short pace, that the inexperienced rider
will be kept alternately shifting his position from withers to rump, at
every stride. But commend me to a good mule; over a broken country,
where their delicate little hoofs find a secure foothold over shelving
rocks, or upon the brink of a yawning precipice, where you drop the
bridle, close your eyes and offer up an orison for your blessed mule to
bear you safely. And with what sagacity they feel their way, and how
often an imprudent rider will find cause to bless his stars that the
wilful lit