at sunset was
remarkable--spaces of brilliant green between clouds of fiery red.
Rainbows had been frequent throughout the day, and at night a
perfectly continuous lunar bow spanned the heavens from side to side.
Its colours were feeble; but, contrasted with the black ground against
which it rested, its luminousness was extraordinary.

Sunday morning found us opposite to Lisbon, and at midnight we rounded
Cape St. Vincent, where the lurching seemed disposed to recommence.
Through the kindness of Lieutenant Walton, a cot had been slung for
me. It hung between a tiller-wheel and a flue, and at one A.M. I was
roused by the banging of the cot against its boundaries. But the wind
was now behind us, and we went along at a speed of eleven knots. We
felt certain of reaching Cadiz by three. But a new lighthouse came in
sight, which some affirmed to be Cadiz Lighthouse, while the
surrounding houses were declared to be those of Cadiz itself. Out of
deference to these statements, the navigating lieutenant changed his
course, and steered for the place. A pilot came on board, and he
informed us that we were before the mouth of the Guadalquivir, and
that the lighthouse was that of Cipiona. Cadiz was still some
eighteen miles distant.

We steered towards the city, hoping to get into the harbour before
dark. But the pilot who would have guided us had been snapped up by
another vessel, and we did not get in. We beat about during the
night, and in the morning found ourselves about fifteen miles from
Cadiz. The sun rose behind the city, and we steered straight into the
light. The three-towered cathedral stood in the midst, round which
swarmed apparently a multitude of chimney-stacks. A nearer approach
showed the chimneys to be small turrets. A pilot was taken on board;
for there is a dangerous shoal in the harbour. The appearance of the
town as the sun shone upon its white and lofty walls was singularly
beautiful. We cast anchor; some officials arrived and demanded a
clean bill of health. We had none. They would have nothing to do
with us; so the yellow quarantine flag was hoisted, and we waited for
permission to land the Cadiz party. After some hours' delay the
English consul and vice-consul came on board, and with them a Spanish
officer ablaze with gold lace and decorations. Under slight pressure
the requisite permission had been granted. We landed our party, and
in the afternoon weighed anchor. Thanks to the kindne