ide
nothing from us. We took the 'upper line,' traversed the galleries
hewn through the limestone; looked through the embrasures, which
opened like doors in the precipice, towards the hills of Spain;
reached St. George's hall, and went still higher, emerging on the
summit of one of the noblest cliffs I have ever seen.

Beyond were the Spanish lines, marked by a line of white sentry-boxes;
nearer were the English lines, less conspicuously indicated; and
between both was the neutral ground. Behind the Spanish lines rose
the conical hill called the Queen of Spain's Chair. The general
aspect of the mainland from the rock is bold and rugged. Doubling
back from the galleries, we struck upwards towards the crest, reached
the Signal Station, where we indulged in 'shandy-gaff' and bread and
cheese. Thence to O'Hara's Tower, the highest point of the rock. It
was built by a former Governor, who, forgetful of the laws of
terrestrial curvature, thought he might look from the tower into-the
port of Cadiz. The tower is riven, and it may be climbed along the
edges of the crack. We got to the top of it; thence descended the
curious Mediterranean Stair--a zigzag, mostly of steps down a steeply
falling slope, amid palmetto brush, aloes, and prickly pear.

Passing over the Windmill Hill, we were joined at the 'Governor's
Cottage' by a car, and drove afterwards to the lighthouse at Europa
Point. The tower was built, I believe, by Queen Adelaide, and it
contains a fine dioptric apparatus of the first order, constructed by
Messrs. Chance, of Birmingham. At the appointed hour we were at the
Convent. During dinner the same genial traits which appeared in the
morning were still more conspicuous. The freshness of the Governor's
nature showed itself best when he spoke of his old antagonist in arms,
Mouravieff. Chivalry in war is consistent with its stern prosecution.
These two men were chivalrous, and after striking the last blow became
friends for ever. Our kind and courteous reception at Gibraltar is a
thing to be remembered with pleasure.

On December 15 we committed ourselves to the Mediterranean. The views
of Gibraltar with which we are most acquainted represent it as a huge
ridge; but its aspect, end on, both from the Spanish lines and from
the other side, is truly noble. There is a sloping bank of sand at
the back of the rock, which I was disposed to regard simply as the
_debris_ of the limestone. I wished to let myself