in company with two friends, I drove to
the Spanish lines, with the view of seeing the rock from that side. It
is an exceedingly noble mass. The Peninsular and Oriental mail-boat
had been signalled and had come. Heavy duties called me homeward, and
by transferring myself from the "Urgent" to the mail-steamer I should
gain three days. I hired a boat, rowed to the steamer, learned that
she was to start at one, and returned with all speed to the "Urgent."
Making known to Captain Henderson my wish to get away, he expressed
doubts as to the possibility of reaching the mail-steamer in time.
With his accustomed kindness, he however placed a boat at my disposal.
Four hardy fellows and one of the ship's officers jumped into it; my
luggage, hastily thrown together, was tumbled in, and we were
immediately on our way. We had nearly four miles to row in about
twenty minutes; but we hoped the mail-boat might not be punctual. For
a time we watched her anxiously; there was no motion; we came nearer,
but the flags were not yet hauled in. The men put forth all their
strength, animated by the exhortations of the officer at the helm.
The roughness of the sea rendered their efforts to some extent
nugatory: still we were rapidly approaching the steamer. At length
she moved, punctual almost to the minute, at first slowly, but soon
with quickened pace.
We turned to the left, so as to cut across her bows. Five minutes'
pull would have brought us up to her. The officer waved his cap and I
my hat. 'If they could only see us, they might back to us in a
moment.' But they did not see us, or if they did, they paid us no
attention. I returned to the "Urgent," discomfited, but grateful to
the fine fellows who had wrought so hard to carry out my wishes.
Glad of the quiet, in the sober afternoon I took a walk towards Europa
Point. The sky darkened and heavy squalls passed at intervals.
Private theatricals were at the Convent, and the kind and courteous
Governor had sent cards to the eclipse party. I failed in my duty in
not going. St. Michael's Cave is said to rival, if it does not
outrival, the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. On the 28th Mr. Crookes, Mr.
Carpenter, and myself, guided by a military policeman who understood
his work, explored the cavern. The mouth is about 1,100 feet above
the sea. We zigzagged up to it, and first were led into an aperture
in the rock, at some height above the true entrance of the cave. In
this upper cave
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