abandoned for an
eminence in an adjacent garden, the property of Mr. Hinshelwood, a
Scotchman who had settled some years previously as an Esparto merchant
in Oran. [Footnote: Esparto is a kind of grass now much used in the
manufacture of paper.] He, in the most liberal manner, placed his
ground at the disposition of the party. Here the tents were pitched,
on the Saturday, by Captain Salmond and his intelligent corps of
sappers, the instruments being erected on the Monday under cover of
the tents.

Close to the railway station runs a new loopholed wall of defence,
through which the highway passes into the open country. Standing on
the highway, and looking southwards, about twenty yards to the right
is a small bastionet, intended to carry a gun or two. Its roof I
thought would form an admirable basis for my telescope, while the view
of the surrounding country was unimpeded in all directions. The
authorities kindly allowed me the use of this bastionet. Two men, one
a blue-jacket named Elliot, and the other a marine named Hill, were
placed at my disposal by Lieutenant Walton; and, thus aided, on Monday
morning I mounted my telescope. The instrument was new to me, and
some hours of discipline were spent in mastering all the details of
its manipulation.

Mr. Huggins joined me, and we visited together the Arab quarter of
Oran. The flat-roofed houses appeared very clean and white. The
street was filled with loiterers, and the thresholds were occupied by
picturesque groups. Some of the men were very fine. We saw many
straight, manly fellows who must have been six feet four in height.
They passed us with perfect indifference, evincing no anger,
suspicion, or curiosity, hardly caring in fact to glance at us as we
passed. In one instance only during my stay at Oran was I spoken to
by an Arab. He was a tall, good-humoured fellow, who came smiling up
to me, and muttered something about 'les Anglais.' The mixed
population of Oran is picturesque in the highest degree: the Jews,
rich and poor, varying in their costumes as their wealth varies; the
Arabs more picturesque still, and of all shades of complexion--the
negroes, the Spaniards, the French, all grouped together, each race
preserving its own individuality, formed a picture intensely
interesting to me.

On Tuesday, the 20th, I was early at the bastionet. The night had
been very squally. The sergeant of the sappers had taken charge of
our key, and on Tuesday morn