save for the lovely views it commands, and the large and beautiful
gardens which surround it, where almost every variety of orange and
lemon trees grow to perfection. Before the Czarowitch's death visitors
were allowed the privilege of viewing the grounds, but this is now
refused.

Nice is divided into two distinct parts, known as the Old and New Town.
The latter is well laid out--there are two very fine squares, one being
surrounded by very handsome porticoes; while the other is supplemented
by a raised terrace, which serves both as a sea-wall and public
promenade. Part of this promenade is on the flat roofs of a row of low
houses, which at harvest-time are utilized as drying-floors for wheat
and other grain, which are spread in the hot sun. This is, of course,
before the season for visitors sets in, and while there are but few
strangers in the town.

The shops are remarkably good, the confectioners' windows being very
tempting with their array of airy-looking pastry, which is as nice as it
is novel to us, accustomed to the more substantial and perhaps slightly
heavy preparations of the kind in our own country. Especially to be
noticed, too, are the displays of corals in all its most exquisite
varieties, which may be purchased at a very reasonable rate, as also
various kinds of lace. Indeed, this modern part of Nice is quite a
little seaside Paris: the tramcars pass smoothly up and down, and the
fashionable equipages, sometimes with bells attached to the horses'
heads, dash gaily along.

The Old Town consists of narrow, dirty-smelling labyrinths, unworthy the
name of streets, with blocks of shops of every kind. It is, however,
interesting, as one here sees the working population "at home." In a
large market-square we saw one of the lumbering old-fashioned
diligences arrive, which recalled all that we had read of the days of
continental travel before railways. There can be no doubt that the smart
stage-coaches of England were very superior conveyances to the
cumbersome, cobwebby diligence, which seems better adapted for night
than for day travelling.

The flower-shops are one of the most interesting features of Nice,
especially to ladies. Bouquets composed of the most exquisite flowers,
of every size and description, from tiny button-hole sprays to masses of
blossoms two feet in diameter, surround you on every side. Yet, after
all, I believe no people arrange flowers so tastefully as the English.
Our bouquets are