is very inadequate provision for extinguishing fire--a terrible
consideration at all times, but disarmed of much of its terror when
properly provided against. One evening, when descending the main
staircase of our hotel, there was an evident smell of fire, and soon a
painful sensation in my eyes told me of smoke also. On reaching the
hall, I found the smoke issuing from the warming shaft in the floor. I
returned, quietly warned my wife and others of the danger, and soon the
master of the hotel and all the servants were on the spot. In their
excitement to subdue it, before the numerous visitors should be alarmed,
they opened the aperture still more, so as to give free vent to the
smoke. I at once told them their mistake, and, seizing the nearest
door-mat, put it over the aperture; my example was followed, and other
exits closed, the servants meanwhile carrying buckets of water below,
where the fire had originated. Fortunately, the fire was soon
extinguished, little harm being done; but the event showed me that there
was no systematic preparation or appliances in case of fire, which I
thought a very serious omission in the comfort and safety of the
visitors.[C]

The day after our arrival was Sunday, and we attended the English
church, and were greatly pleased with the reverent, home-reminding way
in which the service was conducted. We then took a pleasant walk by the
sea, listening to a good band of music in the gardens; then into the one
long main street of the town, calling at the post-office for letters,
and leaving our address, that all others might be sent on to our hotel.
We had a peep, too, into the numerous little shops, especially those for
the sale of flowers, as at Cannes, and the cheerful little market-place.
Finally, turning the promontory at the end of the street, and emerging
on the road by the sea, we found a delightful promenade; and further on,
in the eastern portion of Mentone, another English church, "Christ
Church," and several finely situated hotels and pretty villas standing
in groves of orange trees, facing the sea, and under the shelter of the
almost precipitous mountain ranges in the background.

The natives here are evidently of very dirty habits, and the residents
must be sadly wanting in nasal sensibility, for, on attempting to
advance through one of the narrow side streets dividing the pretty
villas, we were obliged to beat a hasty retreat; and this was not the
only pretty lane so vilely mi