these large towns are so
republican, and show so strong a dislike to imperialism. They complain
that while they _make_ the money, the imperialists _squander_ it.

We were much amused to see nearly all the merchants on 'Change, wearing
white neckties and generally black coats--a very respectable and ancient
custom, which has come down from the time when Marseilles was in the
zenith of her prosperity. I believe even now these merchants are called
"courtiers of merchandize."

The main streets and boulevards are very handsome, with elegant
fountains which relieve the somewhat monotonous regularity. Some of the
squares are of immense size. There is a very large lazaretto, which is
said to be one of the best managed in the world. The _cafes_ are like
small palaces, and the shops rival the finest in Paris.

Here, as in most French cities, no expense is spared in making the
streets gay and brilliant at night. In some of them the electric light
is used.

The French people dearly love their _cafes_, spending many of their
evening hours there instead of _chez eux_. I am not quite sure whether
the Frenchman may honestly be termed a domestic animal; I should rather
say he was intensely gregarious. At all events, I do not think he
understands the full value of _home_ as we do.

It was Sunday when we were there, and the town teemed with holiday life.
Up to noon it was comparatively quiet, with some appearance of sabbath
rest, but after that what a change! The whole place was like a great
fair, every one bent on fun and pleasure: hucksters' stalls,
marionettes, bazaars, rifle-galleries, concerts, theatres, and crowded
_cafes_, the latter resounding with the click of dominoes and billiard
balls; the more quiet folk reading their beloved _Figaro_.

We felt this was indeed very different to our English way of enjoying
Sunday. Even our museums, picture galleries, and such-like comparatively
quiet and innocent places of recreative amusement are not yet declared
open. And thankful we should be that on at least one day in the week
there is peace and rest for both man and beast; and that simply in
obedience to a natural and Divine law, made by the great Creator who so
well knew our human wants and requirements. The more one sees of this
sabbath _unrest_ abroad, the more content one feels for the sweet and
peaceful Sunday rest at home. I do not really believe in the happiness,
health, and prosperity of any people who disregard the sabbath