nnes and other parts of
the coast, they should be seen from the sea from the deck of a yacht or
packet some three or four miles off.

On the 27th we left by train for Nice, arriving there towards evening.

[B] Since writing the above, one more hope of unfortunate France, the
head of the Legitimist party, faithful to the last of his "divine
right," has passed away.

CHAPTER IV.

Nice--Its persistently Italian character--Its gaming propensities--Hints
about luggage--Old and New Towns--Flower-shops--A river laundry--The
harbours of Nice and Villafranca--Scenery and climate of Nice--A cowardly
outrage--In the Cathedral--Hotel charges--Leaving Nice.

From Cannes to Nice, or Nizza, is but a short run by rail, but on
reaching the latter we see at once that we have entered another
country--as one of the natives epigrammatically remarked, "The Emperor
Napoleon made Nice France, but God made it Italy." In spite of the
French flags, French soldiers, and French gens d'armes, it is soon
perceptible that we have entered Italy, more especially on going into
the old part of the town, out of the way of the large hotels built for
the English, who flock here in such numbers.

Nice, the birthplace of Garibaldi, the great liberator of Italy, will
some day be Italian again. In 1870-71, the debt of gratitude to France
for her assistance in wresting Lombardy and Venice from the Austrians,
was of too recent a date to admit of the Italians taking advantage of
her weakness to resume possession of the provinces of Nice and Savoy,
and they were, besides, intent at the time on seizing upon the city of
Rome; but there is no doubt that, sooner or later--in fact, on the very
first opportunity that offers, the old boundary between the two
countries will be resumed, and both Savoy and Nice will be re-occupied
by their natural owners, the Italians. There was a bitter and fateful
irony in the fact that no place could be found to barter to a foreign
power but the very birthplace of the champion of Italy's liberty; and
the best friend of this fair country cannot but acknowledge this act on
the part of Victor Emmanuel to have been unjust to her devoted people,
and a blot on her ancient honour and glory; but at the same time, France
will share in the condemnation of the world, for exacting so great and
unnatural a sacrifice. It is equally iniquitous for a sovereign to
barter away the birthright of his subjects as for