228

CHAPTER XIX.

Arrival in Venice--The Water City--Gondola traffic--Past glories
--Danieli's Royal Hotel--St. Mark's Piazza--The Sacred Pigeons
--St. Mark's--Mosaics--The Holy Columns--Treasures--The Chian
Steeds--The modern Goth 241

CHAPTER XX.

A water-excursion--The Bridge of Sighs--Doge's Palace--Archaeological
Museum--The Rialto--The streets of Venice--Aids to disease--Venetian
Immorality--The Arsenal--Nautical Museum--Trip to Lido--Glass works
--Venetian evenings--The great Piazza--Scene on the Piazzetta--
Farewell to Venice 253

CHAPTER XXI.

Leaving Venice--Hervey's Lament--Scenery _en route_--Padua--
Associations of the past--A brief history of Padua, and the House
of Carrara--General appearance of the town--Giotto's Chapel--His
beautiful frescoes--Character of Giotto's work--The Cathedral--
Palazzo della Ragione--The Wooden Horse--St. Antonio--The
Hermitage--The Fallen Angels--The University and its students
--Ladies of Padua--Situation of the city--An old bridge--Climate 264

CHAPTER XXII.

Journey from Padua--The great Quadrilateral--Historic Verona--Hotel
due Torri--Recent inundations--Poetic Verona--House of the Capulets
--Juliet's tomb--Streets and monuments--Cathedral--Roman Amphitheatre
--Shops--Veronese ladies--Departure--Romantic journey--Lake Garda
--Desenzano--Brescia 274

CHAPTER XXIII.

Arrival in Milan--Railway station--Tram carriages--History and
present condition--The Cathedral--Irreverence of Italian Priests
--The Ambrosian Liturgy--Sunday school--S. Carlo Borromeo--Relics
--A frozen flower-garden--View from the tower 287

CHAPTER XXIV.

Milan--Social and charitable--How to relieve our Poor--Leonardo's
"Last Supper"--Condition of churches in Italy--Santa Maria delle
Grazie--La Scala--Picture-galleries--St. Ambrogio--Ambrosian
library--Public gardens--Excursion to the Lakes--Monza--Como
--Lake scenery--Bellagio--American rowdyism 300

CHAPTER XXV.

Climate of Milan--Magenta--Arrival in Turin--Palazzo Madama--
Chapel of the Holy Napkin--The lotter