not so magnificent as that at Bayeux.
The organ is comparatively small. Perhaps the thirteenth century is a
period sufficiently remote to assign for the completion of the interior of
this church, for I cannot subscribe to the hypothesis of the Abbe de la
Rue, that this edifice was probably erected by Tancred King of Sicily at
the end of the eleventh, or at the beginning of the twelfth century.
The exterior of this Church is indeed its chief attraction.[155]
Unquestionably the style of architecture is very peculiar, and does not, as
far as I know, extend beyond St. Lo, in Normandy. My great object was to
mount upon the roof of the central tower, which is octagonal, containing
fine lofty lancet windows, and commanding from its summit a magnificent
panorama. Another story, one half the height of the present erection from
the roof of the nave, would put a glorious finish to the central tower of
NOTRE DAME at COUTANCES. As I ascended this central tower, I digressed
occasionally into the lateral galleries along the aisles. To look down, was
somewhat terrific; but who could help bewailing the wretched, rotten,
green-tinted appearance of the roof of the north aisle?--which arose here,
as at Bayeux, from its being stripped of the lead (during the Revolution)
to make _bullets_--and from the rain's penetrating the interior in
consequence. As I continued to ascend, I looked through the apertures to
notice the fine formation and almost magical erection of the lancet windows
of the western towers: and the higher I mounted, the more beautiful and
magical seemed to be that portion of the building. At length I reached the
summit; and concentrating myself a little, gazed around.
The view was lovely beyond measure. Coutances lies within four miles of the
sea, so that to the west and south there appeared an immense expanse of
ocean. On the opposite points was an extensive landscape, well-wooded,
undulating, rich, and thickly studded with farm-houses. _Jersey_ appeared
to the north-west, quite encircled by the sea; and nearly to the south,
stood out the bold insulated little rock of _Granville_, defying the
eternal washing of the wave. Such a view is perhaps no where else to be
seen in Normandy; certainly not from any ecclesiastical edifice with which
I am acquainted. The sun was now declining apace, which gave a wanner glow
to the ocean, and a richer hue to the landscape. It is impossible to
particularize. All was exquisitely refreshing a
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