idence, within and without, of what is called the restoration of
the Gothic order during the reign of Francis I.: although the most
essential and the greater portion is evidently of the latter part of the
fourteenth century.[170] Having expressed my admiration of the manufacture
of wax candles (for religious purposes) which I had frequently observed in
the town, Monsieur Mouton, upon taking me into the sacristy (similar to our
vestry-room) begged I would do him the honour to accept of any which might
be lying upon the table. These candles are made of the purest white wax: of
a spiral, or twisted, or square, or circular form; of considerable length
and width. They are also decorated with fillagree work, and tinsel of
various colours. Upon that which I chose, there were little rosettes made
of wax. The moderate sum for which they are obtained, startles an
Englishman who thinks of the high price of this article of trade in his own
country. You see frequently, against the walls and pillars of the choir,
fragments of these larger wax candles, guttering down and begrimed from the
uses made of them in time of worship. In this sacristy there were two
little boys swinging _wooden_ censers, by way of practice for the more
perfect use of them, when charged with frankincense, at the altar. To
manage these adroitly--as the traveller is in the constant habit of
observing during divine worship--is a matter of no very quick or easy
attainment.

From the Cure we proceed to the Comte DE LA FRESNAYE; whose pleasantly
situated mansion had been pointed out to me, as you may remember, by the
former. Passing over one of the bridges, leading towards _Guibray_, and
ascending a gentle eminence to the left, I approached the outer lodge of
this large and respectable-looking mansion. The Count and family were at
dinner: but at _three_ they would rise from table. "Meanwhile," said the
porter, it might give me pleasure to walk in the garden." It was one of the
loveliest days imaginable. Such a sky--blue, bright, and cloudless--I had
scarcely before seen. The garden was almost suffocated with lilacs and
laburnums, glittering in their respective liveries of white, purple, and
yellow. I stepped into a berceau--and sitting upon a bench, bethought me of
the strange visit I was about to make--as well as of all the pleasing
pastoral poetry and painting which I had read in the pages of De Lille, or
viewed upon the canvas of Watteau. The clock of the church of