as warmed by the full effulgence of an unclouded sun, and
animated by the increasing numbers and activity of the _paysannes_ and
_bourgeoises_ mingling in their sabbath-walks. Their bright dark _blues_
and _crimsons_ were put on upon the occasion; and nought but peace,
tranquillity, and fruitfulness seemed to prevail on all sides. It was a
scene wherein you might have placed Arcadian shepherds--worthy of being
copied-by the pencil of Claude.
We entered the town at a sharp trot. The postilion, flourishing his whip,
and causing its sound to re-echo through the principal street, upon an
ascent, drove to the chief inn, the _Hotel d'Angleterre_, within about one
hundred yards of the cathedral. Vespers were just over; and I shall not
readily forget the rush and swarm of the clergy who were pouring out, from
the north door, and covering the street with one extensive black mass.
There could not have been fewer than two hundred young Ecclesiastics--thus
returning from vespers to their respective homes; or rather to the College,
or great clerical establishment, in the neighbourhood. This College, which
has suffered from violence and neglect, through the revolution and
Bonaparte's dynasty, is now beginning to raise its head in a very
distinguished and commanding manner. It was a singular sight--to see such a
crowd of young men, wearing cocked hats, black robes, and black bands with
white edging! The women were all out in the streets; sitting before their
doors, or quietly lounging or walking. The afternoon was indeed unusually
serene.
I ordered a late dinner, and set out for the cathedral. It was impossible
to visit it at a more favorable moment. The congregation had departed; and
a fine warm sun darted its rays in every surrounding direction. As I looked
around, I could not fail to be struck with the singular arrangement of the
columns round the choir: or rather of the double aisle between the choir
and the walls, as at St. Lo; but here yet more distinctly marked. For a
wonder, an _unpainted_ Virgin and child in Our Lady's chapel, behind the
choir! There is nothing, I think, in the interior of this church that
merits particular notice and commendation, except it be some
beautifully-stained glass windows; with the arms, however, of certain noble
families, and the regal arms (as at Bayeux) obliterated. There is a deep
well in the north transept, to supply the town with water in case of fire.
The pulpit is large and handsome; but
|