btains pretty generally here; but it should be noted that, in the right
side aisle, the pillars have capitals. There is something unusual also in
the row of pillars which spring up, flanking the choir, half way between
the walls of the choir and the outward wall of the church. Nor am I sure
that, destitute of a graceful, superadded arch, such massive perpendicular
lines have either meaning or effect. Whether St. Lo were the _first_ church
upon which the architect, who built both _that_ and the cathedral at
_Coutances_, tried his talents--or whether, indeed, both churches be the
effort of the same hand--I cannot pretend to determine; but, both outwardly
and inwardly, these two churches have a strong resemblance to each other.
Like many other similar buildings in France, the church of St. Lo is
closely blocked up by surrounding houses.

I prepared to leave St. Lo about mid-day, after agreeing for a large heavy
machine, with a stout pair of horses, to conduct me to this place. There
are some curious old houses near the inn, with exterior ornaments like
those of the XVIth century, in our own country. But on quitting the town,
in the road to Coutances,--after you come to what are called the old castle
walls, on passing the outer gate--your eye is struck by rather an
extraordinary combination of objects. The town itself seems to be built
upon a rock. Above, below, every thing appears like huge scales of iron;
while, at the bottom, in a serpentine direction, runs the peaceful and
fruitful river _Aure_.[154] The country immediately around abounds in
verdant pasture, and luxuriantly wooded heights. Upon the whole, our sortie
from St. Lo, beneath a bright blue sky and a meridian sun, was extremely
cheerful and gratifying.

A hard road (but bold and broad, as usual) soon convinced me of the
uncomfortableness of the conveyance; which, though roomy, and of rather
respectable appearance, wanted springs: but the increasing beauty of the
country, kept my attention perfectly occupied, till the beautiful
cathedral, of COUTANCES caught my notice, on an elevated ground, to the
left. The situation is truly striking, gaze from what quarter you will.
From that of St. Lo, the immediate approach to the town is rendered very
interesting from the broad _route royale_, lined with birch, hazel, and
beech. The delicacy, or perhaps the peculiarity of the western towers of
the cathedral, struck me as singularly picturesque; while the whole
landscape w