e Dieu_. Here I ordered a voiture and
post horses: but the master of the Poste Royale, or rather of the inn,
shook his head--"Pour les chevaux, vous en aurez des meilleurs: mais, pour
la voiture il n'y en a pas. Tenez, Monsieur; venez voir." I followed, with
miserable forebodings--and entering a shed, where stood an old
tumble-down-looking phaeton--"la voila, c'est la seule que je possede en ce
moment"--exclaimed the landlord. It had never stirred from its position
since the fall of last years' leaf. It had been--within and without--the
roosting place for fowls and other of the feathered tribe in the farm yard;
and although literally covered with the _evidences_ of such long and
undisturbed possession, yet, as there was no appearance of rain, and as I
discovered the wished for "_ressorts_" (or _springs_) I compromised for the
repulsiveness of the exterior, and declared my intention of taking it
onward. Water, brooms, brushes, and cloths, were quickly put in
requisition; and two stately and well fed horses, which threatened to fly
away with this slender machine, being fastened on, I absolutely darted
forward at a round rattling gallop for _St. Sever_. Blessings ever wait
upon the memory of that artisan who invented ... _springs_!

The postilion had the perfect command of his horses, and he galloped, or
trotted, or ambled, as his fancy--or rather our wishes--directed. The
approach to our halting place was rather imposing. What seemed to be a
monastery, or church, at St. Sever, had quite the appearance of Moorish
architecture; and indeed as I had occasional glimpses of it through the
trees, the effect was exceedingly picturesque. This posting town is in
truth very delightfully situated. While the horses were being changed, I
made our way for the monastery; which I found to be in a state rather of
dilapidation than of ruin. It had, indeed, a wretched aspect. I entered the
chapel, and saw lying, transversely upon a desk, to the left--a very clean,
large paper, and uncut copy of the folio _Rouen Missal_ of 1759. Every
thing about this deserted and decaying spot had a melancholy appearance:
but the surrounding country was rich, wooded, and picturesque. In former
days of prosperity--such as St. Sever had seen before the Revolution--there
had been gaiety, abundance, and happiness. It was now a perfect contrast to
such a state.

On returning to the "_Poste Royale_" I found two fresh lusty horses to our
voiture--but the postilion