ldiers.

A few expeditions had travelled in the northern part of Tibet, as the
country was there practically uninhabited. They had met with no one to
oppose their march save, perhaps, a few miserable nomads. No one, since
Tibet became a forbidden country to strangers, had been able to
penetrate in the Province of Lhassa--the only province of Tibet with a
comparatively thick population. It was this province, the most forbidden
of all that forbidden land, that I intended to explore and survey. I
succeeded in my object, although I came very near paying with my life
for my wish to be of use to science and my fellow-creatures.

With the best equipment that money could buy for scientific work, I
started for the Tibetan frontier in 1897. From Bombay, in India, I
travelled north to the end of the railway, at Kathgodam, and then by
carts and horses to Naini Tal. At this little hill-station on the lower
Himahlyas, in the north-west Province of India, I prepared my
expedition, resolved to force my way in the Unknown Land.

Naini Tal is 6407 feet above the level of the sea. From this point all
my loads had to be carried on the backs of coolies or porters.
Therefore, each load must not exceed fifty pounds in weight. I packed
instruments, negatives, and articles liable to get damaged in cases of
my own manufacture, specially designed for rough usage. A set of four
such cases of well-seasoned deal wood, carefully joined and fitted,
zinc-lined and soaked in a special preparation by which they were
rendered water and air tight, could be made useful in many ways. Taken
separately, they could be used as seats. Four placed in a row, answered
the purpose of a bedstead. Three could be used as seat and table. The
combination of four, used in a certain manner, made a punt, or boat, of
quick, solid, and easy construction, with which an unfordable river
could be crossed, or for taking soundings in the still waters of
unexplored lakes. The cases could be used as tanks for photographic
work. In case of emergency they might serve even as water-casks for
carrying water in regions where it was not to be found. Each of these
boxes, packed, was exactly a coolie load, or else in sets of two they
could be slung over a pack-saddle by means of straps with rings.

My provisions had been specially prepared for me, and were suited to the
severe climate and the high elevations I should find myself in. The
preserved meats contained a vast amount of fat and c