large
following. He was a picturesque figure dressed in a long coat of green
silk of Chinese shape, with large sleeves turned up, showing his arms up
to the elbow. He had a cap similar to those worn by Chinese officials,
and he was shod in heavy, long black boots, with large nails under the
soles. His long, pale, angular face was remarkable in many ways. It was
dignified and full of repose. Though somewhat weak, his features were
rather fine. Long hair fell in loose curls down to his shoulders.
Hanging from his left ear was a large ear-ring, with malachite ornaments
and a pendant. In his nervous fingers he held a small roll of Tibetan
material, which he used with both hands as a handkerchief. He blew his
nose inconsequently every time he was at a loss to answer a question.
The Tarjum and his men were profuse in their bows, and there was, as
usual, a great display of tongues.

We had rugs placed outside our principal tent. The doctor and I sat on
one, asking the Tarjum to sit on the one facing us. His followers
squatted around him. It is a well-known fact that in Tibet, if you are a
"somebody," or if you wish people to recognize your importance, you must
have an umbrella spread over your head. Fortunately the ever-prudent
doctor had two, and these were duly spread over our respective heads.
The Tarjum himself was shaded under a parasol of colossal dimensions,
held in position by his secretary.

In spite of the extravagant terms of friendship which fell from the
Tarjum's lips, I was convinced, by studying the man's face, that his
words were insincere, and that it would be unsafe to trust him. He
never looked us straight in the face. His eyes were fixed on the ground
all the time, and he spoke in an unpleasantly affected manner. I did not
like the man from the very first, and, friend or no friend, I kept my
loaded rifle on my lap.

After long, heavy speeches, clumsy compliments, and tender inquiries on
the state of health of all relatives they could possibly think of, after
repeated blowing of the nose and loud coughing, which always came on
when we asked whether they had yet decided what we should be allowed to
do, at last, when my patience was nearly exhausted, our negotiations of
the previous day were reopened. We argued for hours. We asked to be
allowed to go on. They were still uncertain whether they would let us or
not. To simplify matters, and hasten their decision before other
reinforcements arrived, the doctor