rough the whole affair. He was a philosopher, and
never worried over anything. He took no active part in preparing for our
defence, for he did not fear death. God alone could kill him, he argued,
and all the matchlocks in the country together could not send a bullet
through him unless God wished it. And if it be God's decree that he
should die, what would be the use of rebelling against it? The two
converts, like good Christians, were more practical, and lost no time in
grinding the huge blades of their _kukris_, in order to make them as
sharp as razors.

When darkness came I placed a guard a little distance off our camp. It
seemed likely that the Tibetans might make a rush on our tent if they
had a chance. One of us kept watch all night outside the tent, while
those inside lay down in their clothes, with loaded rifles by their
side. I cannot say that either Dr. Wilson or I felt very uneasy, for the
Tibetan soldiers, with their clumsy matchlocks, long spears, and
jewelled swords and daggers, were more picturesque than dangerous.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: A kind of ox with long hair.]

[Footnote 2: Old muskets fired by a fusee, with a prong to rest the
barrel on.]

CHAPTER VI

ENCOUNTER WITH A HIGH TIBETAN OFFICIAL

Early the next morning we were roused by the distant sound of tinkling
horse-bells. On looking out of the tent I saw a long row of pack-ponies
heavily laden, escorted by a number of mounted soldiers with matchlocks
and spears. It was evident that some high official was coming. This
advance-guard consisted of his inferior officers and baggage. They took
a long sweep far away from our tent, and dismounted at the Gyanema fort.
Other soldiers and messengers were constantly arriving in groups from
all directions. The leader of one party, with a large escort of
soldiers, was received with profuse salaams. I concluded that he must be
an important person.

After some time a message was sent to us that this new-comer, the Barca
Tarjum, wished to have the honor of seeing us. His rank might be
described as that of a feudal prince. We replied that we were having our
breakfast, and that we would send for him when we wished to speak to
him. Our experience had taught us that it was better to treat Tibetan
officials as inferiors, as they were then more subdued and easier to
deal with. At eleven, we sent a messenger to the fort, to say we should
be pleased to receive the Tarjum. He came immediately with a