lcohol. They soon asked if I had any to give them; there was nothing
they would like more. As I never carry intoxicants, I could not offer
whiskey, wine, or beer; but, not wishing to disappoint them, I produced
a bottle of methylated spirit[3] (which I used as fuel in my
hypsometrical[4] apparatus). This they readily drank, apparently liking
its throat-burning-qualities. They even asked for more. The Tarjum
complained of an ailment from which he had suffered for some time. The
doctor was able to give him a suitable remedy. All officers received
small presents. Then they departed.

In the afternoon a messenger came from the Barca Tarjum. He had good
news for us. The Tarjum wished us to understand that, "as we had been so
kind to him and his followers, he regarded us as his personal friends.
As we were so anxious to visit the Mansarowar Lake and the great Kelas
Mount, and had already experienced many difficulties and great expense
in coming so far, he agreed that eight of our party should proceed to
these sacred places. It was impossible for him to give an official
consent, but he repeated again that we could go if we wished."

This news naturally delighted me. Once at Kelas, I felt sure I could
easily go further.

On the same evening a traitor in our camp sneaked from under the tent in
which my men were sleeping and paid a visit to the Tarjum. There is no
doubt that he told him I was not the doctor's brother nor a Hindoo
pilgrim. He disclosed that I was a sahib, and that I was on my way to
Lhassa. From what I heard afterward, it seemed that the Tarjum did not
quite believe his informant; but, fresh doubts arising in his mind, he
sent a message in the night, entreating us to return the way we had
come.

"If there is really a sahib in your party, whom you have kept concealed
from me, and I let you go on, my head will be cut off by the Lhassa
officials. You are now my friends, and you will not allow this."

"Tell the Tarjum," I replied to the messenger, "that he is my friend,
and I will treat him as a friend."

In the morning we found thirty horsemen, fully armed, posted about one
hundred yards from our tent. To go ahead with my frightened men and be
followed by this company would certainly bring trouble. It was better to
adopt other tactics.

Much to the astonishment of the armed force and their superiors, the
doctor, Chanden Sing, and I, rifles in hand, walked firmly toward the
company of soldiers. After us came t