ening. My carriers, half
starved, ate a little _satoo_ (a kind of oatmeal), but Chanden Sing, a
Rajiput, could not, without breaking his caste, eat his food without
undressing. It was two days since he had eaten his last meal, but
rather than break the rules of his religion, or take off his clothes
when it was so cold, he chose to curl up in his blanket and go to sleep
fasting.

Inside the tent the temperature was 28 deg. Fahrenheit, or below
freezing-point. There was a foot of snow upon the ground, and it was
snowing heavily. The carriers, huddled close together so as to keep
warm, attempted to sleep in order to forget their hunger.

Two or three hours later the weather cleared. The coolies, half starved,
came to complain that they were again unable to find fuel to cook their
food, and that they would leave me. It was a trying time. I immediately
took my telescope and climbed to the top of a small mound. It was
curious to see how much faith the coolies had in this spy-glass. They
believed, in a child-like fashion, that with it I could see through
mountains. I came down with the good news that one day's march beyond
would bring us to a spot where fuel was plentiful.

They cheerfully hastened to pack up the loads, and set forth with
unusual energy in the direction I had pointed out. We followed a course
parallel to the high, flat plateau on the other side of the stream. This
snow-covered plateau extended from south-west to north-east. Beyond it
to the north could be seen some high, snowy peaks--in all probability
the lofty summits south-east of Gartok. To our right we were flanked by
high, rugged mountains, with streams here and there dashing down their
sides. Six hours' brisk marching took us to a sheltered spot where a few
lichens and shrubs were growing. If we had suddenly descended into the
Black Forest of Germany or the Yosemite Valley with their gigantic
trees centuries old, our delight could not have been greater, yet the
tallest of these shrubs stood no higher than six or seven inches from
the ground, while the biggest piece of wood we collected was no larger
around than an ordinary pencil. With all possible haste all hands went
to work to root up these plants for fuel.

When night came the same number of hands were busy cooking and swiftly
ladling out such steaming food as was available from the different pots
to the mouths of the famished coolies. Happiness reigned in camp. All
recent hardships were forgott