These Obos, or rough pyramids of stones, were
to be found on the paths over high passes, near lakes, and at the source
of rivers. At no place had I seen so many as at Lama Chokten. Each
passer-by deposited a white stone on one of these Obos. This was
supposed to bring good fortune.

The guard-house itself, of rough stone, would in any country but Tibet
be recognized as better fitted for pigs than for human beings.

Having gone a mile or so further, as the sun was fast disappearing we
searched for a suitable spot to pitch our tents. There was no sign of
water, only the stony bed of a dried rivulet. We were discussing the
situation when we heard a faint sound of rushing water. It grew louder
and louder, and then we saw coming our way a stream of limpid snow-water
gradually creeping over a bed of stones. Evidently the snow of the
mountains, which had melted during the day, had only now reached the
spot where we stood. My brigand was greatly excited.

"Water flowing to you, sahib!" he exclaimed, with his arms outstretched.
"You will have great luck! Look! Look! You want water for your camp, and
a stream comes to you! Heaven blesses you. You must dip your fingers
into the water as soon as it comes up to you, and throw some drops over
your shoulders. Fortune will then attend you on your journey."

I readily fell in with this Tibetan superstition. We all dipped our
fingers and sprinkled the water over our backs. Wilson, however, who
took the matter quite seriously, said it was all nonsense, and would not
give in to such "childish superstitions."

In front of our camp was a great stretch of flat alluvial land, about
ten miles long and fourteen wide, which apparently had once been the bed
of a lake. With my telescope I could see at the foot of a small hill the
camping-ground of Karko. There were many tents. My men seemed reassured
when by their shape and color we made out the tents to be those of
Joharis from Milam, who came over to this place to trade with the
Tibetans. Beyond Karko to the north a stretch of water, the Gyanema
Lake, shone brilliantly, and beyond it could be seen comparatively low
hill ranges. In the distance more snowy peaks were visible.

On leaving camp we traversed the plain for six miles in a north-easterly
direction, and then turned into a smaller valley well enclosed by hills,
which we followed for a distance of three or four miles.

During our march we saw many herds of _kiang_ (wild horse). They