longitude by the sun the
mercury horizon was satisfactory, but when occultations had to be taken
at night the plate-glass horizons were easier to work, and gave a more
clearly defined reflection of stars and planets in such a bitterly cold
climate as Tibet, where astronomical observations were always taken
under great difficulty. The most useful instrument I carried on that
expedition was a powerful telescope with astronomical eyepiece.
Necessarily, I carried a great many compasses, which included prismatic,
luminous, floating, and pocket compasses. Maximum and minimum
thermometers were taken along to keep a record of the daily temperature,
and I also took with me a box of drawing and painting materials, as well
as all kinds of instruments for map-making, such as protractors,
parallel rules, tape rules, section paper, note-books, etc. I had
water-tight half-chronometer watches keeping Greenwich mean time, and
three other watches. In order to work out on the spot my observations
for latitude and longitude, I had with me such books as _Raper's
Navigation_ and the _Nautical Almanac_ for the years 1897 and 1898, in
which all the necessary tables for the computations were to be found.

I was provided with a light mountain tent, usually called a _tente
d'abri_; it was seven feet long, four feet wide, and three feet high; it
weighed four pounds. All I needed in the way of bedding was one
camel's-hair blanket. My clothing was reduced to a minimum. My head-gear
was a mere straw hat, which was unfortunately destroyed at the beginning
of my journey, so that I went most of the time with my head uncovered or
else wore a small cap. I wore medium thick shoes without nails, and
never carried a stick. It was largely due to the simplicity of my
personal equipment that I was able to travel with great speed often
under trying circumstances. Although the preparations for my expedition
cost me several thousand dollars, I spent little money on medicines for
myself and my men; in fact, all they cost me was sixty-two cents (two
shillings and sixpence). I am firm in the belief that any healthy man
living naturally under natural conditions, and giving himself plenty of
exercise, can be helped very little by drugs.

I started from Naini Tal and rode to Almora (5510 feet above sea-level),
the last hill-station toward the Tibetan frontier where I expected to
find European residents. At this place I endeavored to obtain plucky,
honest, wiry, health