entered another world, and should hardly have been surprised if
a crusader in chain-armour had entered the room and knelt down before
the hermit's feet The poor old hermit observing me looking about at all
his goods and chattels, got up on his divan, and from a shelf reached
down a large rosy apple, which he presented to me; it was evidently the
best thing he had, and I was touched when he gave it to me. I took a
great bite: it was very sour indeed; but what was to be done? I could
not bear to vex the old man, so I went on eating a great deal of it,
although it brought the tears into my eyes.

We now heard a holloing and shouting, which portended the arrival of the
mules, and, bidding adieu to the old hermit of the tower, I mounted a
mule; the others were lightly loaded with my effects, and we scrambled
up a steep rocky path through a thicket of odoriferous evergreen shrubs,
our progress being assisted by the screams and bangs inflicted by
several stout acolytes, a sort of lay-brethren, who came down with the
animals from the convent.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Monastery of St. Laura--Kind Reception by the Abbot--Astonishment
of the Monks--History of the Monastery--Rules of the Order of St.
Basil--Description of the Buildings--Curious Pictures of the Last
Judgment--Early Greek Paintings; Richness of their Frames and
Decorations--Ancient Church Plate--Beautiful Reliquary--The
Refectory--The Abbot's Savoury Dish--The Library--The MSS.--Ride to
the Monastery of Caracalla--Magnificent Scenery.

We soon emerged upon a flat piece of ground, and there before us stood
the great monastery of

ST. LAURA.

[Illustration]

It appeared like an ancient fortress, surrounded with high blank walls,
over the tops of which were seen numerous domes and pinnacles, and
odd-shaped roofs and cypress-trees, all jumbled together. In some places
one of those projecting windows, which are called shahneshin at
Constantinople, stood out from the great encircling wall at a
considerable height above the ground; and in front of the entrance was a
porch in the Byzantine style, consisting of four marble columns,
supporting a dome; in this porch stood the agoumenos, backed by a great
many of the brethren. My servant had, doubtless, told him what an
extraordinarily great personage he was to expect, for he received me
with great deference; and after the usual bows and compliments the dark
train of Greek monks filed