rsons of consideration would condescend to sell things of trifling
value--it wounds their aristocratic feelings, they are above such
meannesses. By St. Xenophou, how we did talk! for five mortal hours it
went on, I pretending to go away several times, but being always called
back by one or other of the learned committee. I drank coffee and
sherbet and they drank arraghi; but in the end I got the great book of
Alexius Comnenus for the value of twenty-two pounds, and the curious
Gospels, which I had treated with the most cool disdain all along, was
finally thrown into the bargain; and out I walked with a big book under
each arm, bearing with perfect resignation the smiles and scoffs of the
three brethren, who could scarcely contain their laughter at the way
they had done the silly traveller. Then did the saddlebags begin to
assume a more comely and satisfactory form.

After a stirrup cup of hot coffee, perfumed with the incense of the
church, the monks bid me a joyous adieu; I responded as joyously: in
short every one was charmed, except the mule, who evidently was more
surprised than pleased at the increased weight which he had to carry.

CHAPTER XXVII.

The Monastery of Russico--Its Courteous Abbot--The Monastery of
Xeropotamo--Its History--High Character of its Abbot--Excursion to
the Monasteries of St. Nicholas and St. Dionisius--Interesting
Relics--Magnificent Shrine--The Library--The Monastery of St.
Paul--Respect shown by the Monks--Beautiful MS.--Extraordinary
Liberality and Kindness of the Abbot and Monks--A valuable
Acquisition at little Cost--The Monastery of Simopetra--Purchase of
MS.--The Monk of Xeropotamo--His Ideas about Women--Excursion to
Cariez--The Monastery of Coutloumoussi--The Russian
Book-Stealer--History of the Monastery--Its reputed Destruction by
the Pope of Rome--The Aga of Cariez--Interview in a Kiosk--The She
Cat of Mount Athos.

From Xenophou I went on to

RUSSICO,

where also they were repairing the injuries which different parts of the
edifice had sustained during the late Greek war. The agoumenos of this
monastery was a remarkably gentlemanlike and accomplished man; he spoke
several languages and ruled over a hundred and thirty monks. They had,
however, amongst them all only nine MSS., and those were of no interest.
The agoumenos told me that the monastery formerly possessed a MS. of
Homer on vellum, which he sol