h greensward. It is a happy, peaceful-looking
place, and in its trim and sunny arbours reminds one of Virgil and
Theocritus.
I went to the house of the aga to seek for a habitation, but the aga was
asleep; and who was there so bold as to wake a sleeping aga? Luckily he
awoke of his own accord; and he was soon informed by my interpreter that
an illustrious personage awaited his leisure. He did not care for a
monk, and not much for an agoumenos; but he felt small in the presence
of a mighty Turkish aga. Nevertheless, he ventured a few hints as usual
about the kings and queens who were my first cousins, but in a much more
subdued tone than usual; and I was received with that courteous civility
and good breeding which is so frequently met with among Turks of every
degree. The aga apologised for having no good room to offer me; but he
sent out his men to look for a lodging; and in the mean time we went to
a kiosk, that is, a place like a large birdcage, with enough roof to
make a shade, and no walls to impede the free passage of the air. It was
built of wood, upon a scaffold eight or ten feet from the ground, in the
corner of a garden, and commanded a fine view of the sea. In one corner
of this cage I sat all day long, for there was nowhere else to go to;
and the aga sat opposite to me in another corner, smoking his pipe, in
which solacing occupation to his great surprise I did not partake. We
had cups of coffee and sherbet every now and then, and about every
half-hour the aga uttered a few words of compliment or welcome,
informing me occasionally that there were many dervishes in the place,
"very many dervishes," for so he denominated the monks. Dinner came
towards evening. There was meat, dolmas, demir tatlessi, olives, salad,
roast meat, and pilau, that filled up some time; and shortly afterwards
I retired to the house of the monastery of Russico, a little distance
from my kiosk; and there I slept on a carpet on the boards; and at
sunrise was ready to continue my journey, as were also the mules. The
aga gave me some breakfast, at which repast a cat made its appearance,
with whom the day before I had made acquaintance; but now it came, not
alone, but accompanied by two kittens. "Ah!" said I to the aga, "how is
this? Why, as I live, this is a _she_ cat! a cat feminine! What business
has it on Mount Athos? and with kittens too! a wicked cat!"
"Hush!" said the Aga, with a solemn grin; "do not say anything about it.
Yes, it
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