oliation during the late revolution than any of
the others; for considering that it is not a very large establishment,
the number of valuable things it contained was quite astonishing.
A quarter of an hour's row brought us to the scaricatojo of
ST. PAUL,
from whence we had to walk a mile and a half up a steep hill to the
monastery, where building repairs were going on with great activity. I
was received with cheerful hospitality, and soon made the acquaintance
of four monks, who amongst them spoke English, French, Italian, and
German. Having been installed in a separate bed-room, cleanly furnished
in the Turkish style, where I subsequently enjoyed a delightful night's
rest, undisturbed by a single flea, I was conducted into a large airy
hall. Here, after a very comfortable dinner, the smaller fry of monks
assembled to hear the illustrious stranger hold forth in turn to the
four wise fathers who spoke unknown tongues. The simple, kind-hearted
brethren looked with awe and wonder on the quadruple powers of those
lips that uttered such strange sounds: just as the Peruvians made their
reverence to the Spanish horses, whose speech they understood not, and
whose manners were beyond their comprehension. It was fortunate for my
reputation that the reverend German scholar was of a close and taciturn
disposition, since my knowledge of his scraughing language did not
extend very far, and when we got to scientific discussion I was very
nearly at a stand still; but I am inclined to think that he upheld my
dignity to save his own; and as my servant, who never minced matters,
had doubtless told them that I could speak ninety other languages, and
was besides nephew to most of the crowned heads of Europe, if a phoenix
had come in he would have had a lower place assigned him. I found also
that in this--as indeed in all the other monasteries--one who had
performed the pilgrimage to the Holy Land was looked upon with a certain
degree of respect. In short, I found that at last I was amongst a set of
people who had the sense to appreciate my merits; so I held up my head,
and assumed all the dignified humility of real greatness.
This monastery was founded for Bulgarian and Servian monks by
Constantine Biancobano, Hospodar of Wallachia. There was little that was
interesting in it, either in architecture or any other walk of art; the
library was contained in a small light closet, the books were clean, and
ranged in order on the new deal
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