ny harm, and I never heard of their overstepping
the bounds of sobriety. Besides the two churches in the great courts,
which are shaded by ancient cypresses, there are twenty smaller chapels,
distributed over different parts of the monastery, in which prayers are
said on certain days. The monks are now in a more flourishing condition
than they have been for some years; and as they trust to the continuance
of peace and order in the dominions of the Sultan, they are beginning to
repair the injuries they suffered during the revolution, and there is
altogether an air of improvement and opulence throughout the
establishment.

I wandered over the courts and galleries and chapels of this immense
building in every direction, asking questions respecting those things
which I did not understand, and receiving the kindest and most civil
attention from every one. In front of the door of the largest church a
dome, curiously painted and gilt in the interior, and supported by four
columns, protects a fine marble vase ten feet in diameter, with a
fountain in it; in this magnificent basin the holy water is consecrated
with great ceremony on the feast of the Epiphany.[16]

I was informed that no female animal of any sort or kind is admitted on
any part of the peninsula of Mount Athos; and that since the days of
Constantine the soil of the Holy Mountain had never been contaminated by
the tread of a woman's foot. That this rigid law is infringed by certain
small and active creatures who have the audacity to bring their wives
and large families within the very precincts of the monastery I soon
discovered to my sorrow, and heartily regretted that the stern monastic
law was not more rigidly enforced; nevertheless, I slept well on my
divan, and the next morning at sunrise received a visit from the
agoumenos, who came to wish me good day. After some conversation on
other matters, I inquired about the library, and asked permission to
view its contents. The agoumenos declared his willingness to show me
everything that the monastery contained. "But first," said he, "I wish
to present you with something excellent for your breakfast; and from
the special good will that I bear towards so distinguished a guest I
shall prepare it with my own hands, and will stay to see you eat it; for
it is really an admirable dish, and one not presented to all persons."
"Well," thought I, "a good breakfast is not a bad thing;" and the fresh
mountain-air and the good n