ed when by
their shape and colour we made them out to be those of the Joharis from
Milam, who come over at this place to trade with the Hunyas[16]. To
E.N.E. we had a valley extending for many miles between two high ranges,
and to the W. and N.W. were hills between us and the Darma Yangti,
flowing there in a N.N.E. direction. Beyond Karko to the North, a stretch
of water, the Gyanema Lake, showed brilliantly, and beyond it some
comparatively low hill ranges. In the distance, more snowy peaks were
visible.

On leaving camp we traversed the plain for six miles in a N.E. direction,
and then, on a course of 80 deg. (b.m.), turned into a smaller valley well
enclosed by hills, following it for a distance of three or four miles.
This formed, as it were, an arm of the other large valley.

During our march we saw many large herds of _Kiang_ (wild horse). These
animals came quite close to us. They resembled zebras in shape and
movement of body, but in colour they were mostly light brown. The natives
regarded their near proximity as extremely dangerous; for their apparent
tameness is often deceptive, enabling them to draw quite close to the
unwary traveller, and then with a sudden dash seize him by the stomach,
inflicting a horrible wound with their powerful jaws. Their graceful and
coquettish ways were most taking; we occasionally threw stones at them to
keep them at a safe distance, but after cantering prettily away, they
would follow us again and come within a few yards. I succeeded in taking
some very good negatives, which unfortunately were afterwards destroyed
by the Tibetan authorities. I still have, however, some of the sketches I
made of them. We climbed over another hill range, and descended on the
other side into a grassy stretch of flat land, in the Northern portion of
which was a sheet of water. On a hill South of the lake stood the Gyanema
Khar or fort, a primitive tower-like structure of stones, with a tent
pitched over it to answer the purpose of roof, supporting a flagstaff, on
which flew two dirty white rags. They were not the colours of Hundes, but
only wind prayers. Lower down, at the foot of the hill, were two or three
large black tents and a small shed of stones. Hundreds of black, white,
and brown yaks were grazing on the green patches of grass.

The appearance of our party evidently created some apprehension, for we
had hardly shown ourselves on the summit of the col when from the fort a
gong began to sou