war, yachts, and many smaller vessels,
with rowboats of diverse pattern; to the left was the pier, while the
English flag floated from the attractive yacht club. It was, however, a
typical Continental view, and not an Oriental one, so sharp an impress
has England made on a city and island which were not acquired by
conquest (it is pleasant to note), but as the marriage portion of
Catharine of Braganza, of Portugal, when she became the bride of King
Charles II of England. This transference was a fortunate thing for
Bombay, all foreign residents and tourists agree, but native
appreciation, if there is any, seems to slumber, as is the usual rule
where colonization exists.

The equipment of a party leaving for a tour through India is important,
for a poor guide or an indifferent travelling servant (also called
bearer) would mar the pleasure. Bedding and towels for each member of
the party must be looked after (mostly for night travel, as the hotels
now usually prepare the beds), the guides must also be supplied, and one
must be careful to have appropriate clothing for the journey. Your
travelling servant is, according to custom, not expected to do any
menial service (so considered), such as strapping your trunks, or
removing your hand luggage from your room. This work is performed by
so-called coolies; of course, a travelling servant may be so obliging as
to offer to carry your handbag (as was often done by ours), but you must
be duly appreciative of this show of favor.

* * * * *

JEYPORE, _December 10th_: On the morning of our departure from Bombay,
we each found a fat, brown, English "hold-all," enclosing bedding, which
was added to our luggage, the aggregate requiring much additional space
in our compartments. Our route to Jeypore lay through Ahmedabad, once a
place of much importance, and still of interest on account of its
artistic mosques. But the lack of hotel accommodations for a party
deterred us from stopping over, and also prevented our visiting the
celebrated Jain temples at Mount Abu, a ride of several miles to the
mountains in a jinrikisha. I would, however, advise all tourists to take
this trip, even at some personal discomfort, as the temples are said to
be marvellously beautiful.

[Illustration: _Entrance to one of the Caves of Elephanta_]

The arrival at Jeypore was in the chill of late evening; as we
approached the Hotel Kaiser-i-Hind (the best the place affords), a bl